Embracing the bitter: putting radicchio on center stage

Radicchio makes a supporting appearance in most salad mixes as a color counterpoint and additional flavor component, but rarely has a starring role. Some reasons for this are probably related to its bitterness, unavailability, high price and the idea that salad greens shouldn’t be cooked. But it’s actually a very flexible vegetable — a 1997 […]

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A new pizza dough

The BaselineI have been baking pretty good pizza at home for years using a set of recipes and techniques that have come from many sources. My crust recipe is from the May/June 1995 issue of Cook’s Illustrated (“Professional Pizza at Home”). Now and then I tweak the recipe a bit — perhaps replacing some of […]

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The Joys of Spring Dancing on Snow

(Updated, 12/2/16:  fixed broken links) The vegetables of Spring have shaken me up and caused some unusual behavior. For my big weekend cooking night, I actually cooked the same main course two weeks in a row. That’s virtually unheard of in my kitchen. But it was so good and so seasonal that I could not […]

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Wok-fried Rice Noodles: Method and Recipe

Wok-fried rice noodles are something that I make almost weekly. The dish doesn’t require much list work — I might grab a package of tofu at the grocery, whatever is in season at the Farmers’ Market. Or I could use the vegetables in my refrigerator — a bit of cauliflower, a carrot or two, 1/4 […]

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Transparency at the Table

Q: What do chickpeas, corn starch, soybeans, sweet potatoes, wheat, buckwheat, mung beans, konnyaku, and rice have in common? A: They are all made into noodles. Italy is famous for pasta, Thailand for rice noodles, Japan for noodles made from buckwheat (soba), and the vast realm of Indian cuisine includes noodles made from chickpea flour, […]

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